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The photo above is a stacked composite of 11 images shot using the SkyTech CLS-CCD filter, and a wide angle camera lens. In some cases you see a flare in the image. Understanding an Unmodified DSLR limitations and target selection - posted in Beginning Deep Sky Imaging: So a few weeks ago, I captured some data on the North American Nebula with my Nikon D5300 (unmodded) and a WO Z73. Over the years, I have photographed this region of the sky countless times using a camera and telescope (and sometimes, a camera lens). Still many regard it as one of the most beautiful sights in our night sky. And it's . Just after some advice. Not all camera lenses are created equal, and imaging a night sky full of pinpoint stars has a way of bringing out the worst (or best) of your lens, Continue Reading The Best Lens for Astrophotography (That You Probably Already Own)Continue, IC 5164 The Cocoon Nebula Imaged with an 80mm Refractor We have had a stretch of clear nights this summer, and I have been taking full advantage! The North America . Heres the jpeg. That's just not true. If the lens has enough travel beyond infinity it works. You have to use a clear L filter (UV/IR blocker) in that case. The SkyTech Astrophotography Filters are Available at Ontario Telescope and Accessories. I would be very happy with those images myself. The shape of this nebula looks a lot like the continent it was named after and covers an area more than four times the size of the full moon. But now that I have a better idea about the parameters to shoot with, I'll give that a try the next time the skies are clear near Seattle. The North America Nebula (DSLR camera and telescope). So yes, the California nebula can be imaged with stock cameras and with short total exposure times. I highly suggest you take a shot at this incredible deep-sky object with your camera. One of the most common questions I receive each day is which light pollution filter I recommend for astrophotography in the city. Your email address will not be published. As for a filter a SkyTech CLS is great if your shooting in city LP: http://www.ontariotelescope.com/product.asp?itemid=1202&Affid=2, This would be for the Canon 80D (Thats an excellent camera). It sounds like your camera is not modified, so the CLS (Not CLS-CCD) is what you want. Thanks to everyone for the positive feedback. I read that conventional wisdom definitely points to Astro modding a dslr for imaging, but last night, I read something on the internet that seems to totally contradict everything else that I have heard and read. Some open clusters are located in hydrogen clouds and make the cloud glow red. I dont usually like to stretch images this far. Just wondering from your experience with them if you noticed one to be better then the other for light pollution and for color cast and crispness. Im thinking of purchasing one, but have noticed some pictures are like that. In the past, I have used light pollution filters such as the Astronomik CLS, and IDAS LPS clip-in models on my Canon DSLR. Will be nice to see the progress and different looks you can get re-shooting the same targets later with narrowband for example. There are some guys making it work with some custom engineering. The raw data actually looked better than what I was getting with my previous IDAS LPS filter in terms of contrast in the deep sky object. Ive placed labels of the brightest stars and notable deep sky objects over a wide-field image of the Northern Cross region of the Milky Way. Framing up the target in the orientation you desire will likely eat up the majority of your setup time. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. I suppose the photo above shows a pleasant mix of colored stars and faint pink nebulosity, but if youve ever seen a REAL photo of the California Nebula, you will understand my predicament. So, your images may look better or worse depending on the amount of light pollution you deal with. As you can see, very few (if any) stars can be seen in the RAW image frames. This means you can take better pictures of them in a shorter amount of time. Before you go down the modded route, try a 7 or 8 minute exposure at the observatory. Canon EOS Rebel T3i and a 70mm refractor telescope. With an unmodded camera only little of the Ha is picked up. So far I had sucesss using the 50mm f/1.8 and 300mm F/4L with the Skytech filters. So even without the Ha regions the images do not suffer from lack of color. The electronics glows in infrared. Is the California Nebula worth imaging with an unmodified dslr? Having said this, my Camera should be operated at ISO 1600 (if we are to follow the logic described on the website), but I have come to the conclusion that ISO 800 works well for me. A light pollution filter, especially one with a narrow band-pass that isolates hydrogen-alpha (h-alpha) light is best. All images have been taken from Germany under Bortle 4-5 skies from my backyard with an unmodified Canon T3i or T7i. With that being said, the transmission graph for the CLS-CCD shows that this filter is a better choice with the modified 60Da. Some recommend not to fully attach the lens so that the contacts do not engage. They also work very well on star clusters (both open and globular), reflection nebulae, and most galaxies. Others (like myself) are not so lucky. The North America Nebula captured using a DSLR camera and telescope. Many of them burn hot which gives the spiral arms a blue color. Current lenses I have are EF 50mm f/1.8, EF 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS, and EF 70-200 f/4 IS. It is suitable for deep-sky imaging with a telescope, and night sky photography with a camera lens. To cut through all of the city glow to reveal these objects in space is truly remarkable. Well done my friend. Wich one would you recommend? The framing issue made sure that the Nebula is slightly cut off at the top. The photo above is a stack of 24 x 90-second exposures at ISO 800. These are from my first real attempt at DSOs with my setup I bought years ago. There are good reasons not to do it, for example the camera is used for daytime photography as well or the budget does not allow either to have an existing camera modified or get a modified one. But this is by far not the only emission nebula suitable for unmodded cameras. I am a beginner at AP using my Nikon D5300 (unmodded). Community Forum Software by IP.BoardLicensed to: Cloudy Nights. Hey! Unlike galaxies with only tiny parts of Ha now larger parts may be missing in the image. Mine is too much editing and not enough exposure. You should also look into the Astronomik CLS. You currently have javascript disabled. To complete your image, you must carefully process the data to bring out the signal. Posted 15 November 2021 - 09:49 PM. The main compromise involved in using a DSLR instead of a dedicated astronomical camera is temperature regulation. It is a nice article and I would appreciate your interaction Lots of options and decisions to make from here man. If you go for a full spectrum mod the chromatic aberration of UV and IR will blur your image when you have a refractor. Are these strictly for APS-C? Several functions may not work. By Veil Nebula from bortle 2 skies with unmodded DSLR Heart and Soul. M51 and NGC 5194. Unmodified DSLR on Heart Nebula - Beginning Deep Sky Imaging - Cloudy The transmission graph above shows exactly where the CLS-CCD filter excels Emission Nebulae from the city. Thus they are suitable for beginner setups with a moderate focal length. The IDAS LPS Filter does edge out the SkyTech CLS-CCD in terms of natural sky and star color, but at the cost of less contrast. Needless to say, I wont be imaging the California Nebula again until I modify my 450D. h and Chi in Perseus. Still pleased with the results though! Unmodded DSLR Test - California Nebula There you can find the suposedly best ISO for you camera. For exposure time refer to this table: You have to refer to the black numbers and multiply by 3. In full spectrum mods you loose the sensor cleaning in Canon models. @boxcorner, indeed it was that thread. I hope your t-ring and adapter ring came in by now. No, an unmodified DSLR is about 1/4 as sensitive to hydrogen-alpha as a modified one, so it's more of a challenge, but it's not a fool's errand. Comet Neowise 2020. On May 30th I mounted my Canon 450D to an iOptron SkyGuider pro for a wide field look at the constellation Cygnus. The h-alpha wavelength is very important to amateur astrophotographers, as many deep-sky objects such as the Eagle Nebula emit a strong signal in this bandpass. This is a good choice if youre planning on shooting broad-spectrum targets such as galaxies or reflection nebulae. Canon T7i, Askar FMA180 at f/4.5, 54x3min, ISO 200, Sadr region. In the end it is important that the combination of exposure time and ISO value gives you a good histogram. Only if a star burns at low temperatures it can become old thus the center is often a yellow or golden color. Thanks for taking the time. Any object in close proximity to our home planet is a pure broadband object. Beginners cannot know if that is caused by flaws in the data or lack of processing skills. I took this as a challenge to make a nice image of a nebula with an unmodded cam. If you don't do that, you probably won't have the best battery performance long term. Anyway, I do have a link to an excellent video that shows the process of modding: As a newbie, this is very interesting to me. Pretty scary, isnt it? This group overlaps with the last one. The timeline below shows my progress on NGC 7000 over the years. Living in the city of Dallas, I am also in the red zone and the closest non-red zone is basically an hour at minimum away. The framing you choose may vary widely from the ones shown on this page, depending on the magnification of the optical instrument used. For a longer focal length you have to correct focus now and then because a few degrees temperature change can bring you out of focus. In some cases the galaxies are so far away that it is impossible to resolve such small regions from earth. Canons Astrophotography Camera: The Canon EOS Ra, Detailed procedures for modifying a DSLR Camera. Stumbled on your youtube channel while looking for some astrophotography tutorialsonly shot milky ways before but you got me addicted to astrophotgraphy. The 50mm lens I use is lightweight and affordable. My backyard is considered to be a Class 8 on the Bortle Scale, which is almost as bad as it gets. Sure, modified, and dedicated astrocams have many advantages, and I hope to have one sometime. With 1000mm + you only need something like 10 bars. Images of the North America Nebula and facts about this continent-shaped cosmic cloud. Equipment: Skywatcher 250PDS, Skywatcher AZ-EQ6GT mount, Unmodded Nikon D5200 DSLR. I'm also not opposed to modified cameras. Did you try it out? Canon T7i, TS 65mm Imaging Star, f/6.5, 27x2min, ISO 400. I recently bought a used Canon T5i full spectrum modified which came with the Skytech CLS-CCD clip in filter. Best of all, it fits nicely over any clip-in astrophotography filter you choose to use on your DSLR. No filters. The Pelican Nebula sits right next to the North America Nebula and is often photographed in the same frame. Canon T3i, TS 65mm Imaging Star, f/6.5, 71x2min, ISO 800, M8. Probably the most famous one in the northern hemisphere is the Great Orion Nebula. NGC 1499 - The California Nebula. The CLS-CCD filter improves the visibility of deep sky objects while blocking out a great deal of city glow. 5 mins subs x 10 and stacked on DSS, a little bit of color came out but not much,. I also combined narrowband h-alpha data collected using a Rokinon 135mm F/2 lens (at F/3.2) and my Canon EOS T3i DSLR. Another benefit to wide-field nebulae like this is that a lightweight, compact telescope is well-suited to photograph it (see the astrophotography telescopes I recommend). No filters. Often objects emit Ha and O-III. Canon T7i, Askar FMA180 at f/4.5, 60x5min, ISO 200, North America Nebula. But a duffer will still be a duffer with the most expensive clubs. The Cygnus Wall. I have unmodified canon-600D camera. Again, no problem with a telescope. The photo was created by taking 35 x 5-minute exposures @ ISO 1600 under moderately dark skies. Thanks Josh (neighbour!) Coming back to open clusters that may or may not be associated with an emission nebula. Sorry for the long post. These images can then be combined in Photoshop to create a composite with both the intense deep sky details and natural sky and star color. Frames: 26 x 180 (RGB) Related: Recommended Astrophotography Telescopes. This astrophotography filter features even narrower bandpasses than last years L-eNhance, making it perfect for nebula photography from the city. I live in a medium-sized city in Southern Ontario. great article. The image below was captured using a Canon EOS Rebel DSLR (full-spectrum modified) and a Canon EF 24-105mm F/4L Lens. An unmodded camera is not totally blind at 656nm. The image above was cropped after processing in Photoshop to remove unwanted stacking artifacts near the edges. Very likely your first processed image will not look like a Hubble image. Canon T7i, GSO RC8 at f/6, 120x5min, ISO 400, M33. Shots like this get me really excited. I was sorry to see about your father, I give you my condolences. A great option for beginners is the Sirius Go-To: http://www.kqzyfj.com/click-8129787-10514497?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.telescope.com%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct.jsp%3FproductId%3D116276%26id%3Dcjdf&cjsku=116276. The following photo of the California Nebula was captured using my DSLR camera before it was modified for astrophotography. The Iso selection is a whole science by itself. If you shoot DSLR deep sky astrophotography with a modified Canon camera, the SkyTech CLS-CCD is a must. In the 200mm region and below they are no longer helpful. This is an opportune time to capture NGC 7000 as is the least affected by poor transparency and turbulence in the air. Nebula Solar Portable: How does it compare to the Capsule II? (REVIEW) Nicely written article with excellent examples of what can be achieved with an unmodded DSLR. This means youll be able to record a much larger field of view. A DLSR can do a reasonable job on the North American Nebula. But having said that, a dedicated astrocam does have additional benefits and dont get me started on mono cameras. The teapot asterism just clears my fence to the south of my backyard in central St. Catharines. This depends on your camera and at which ISO you do not get more benefit of extra s/n ratio. The projector has 400 lumens. If youre not familiar with the concept of modifying a DSLR camera for astrophotography, it involves removing the stock IR cut filter that sits over the camera sensor. To capture the intense hydrogen gas of this interstellar cloud, long exposure images must be captured on a tracking equatorial mount. Due to the extreme light pollution from my backyard, Ive decided to create a grey-scale version of my image. I enjoy following you on Youtube. Equipment: Unmodded Canon 450D, Sigma 120-400mm lens @120mm, HEQ5 Pro . Sincerely, By now you should have an ideaof how much light these filters let in, and how the CLS-CCD filter performs on deep sky objects. I love planetary nebulas, but obviously an unmodded dslr restricts these targets. It's easy! I'm still beginner at processing, so that is just the 'first revision', hope I can improve it yet! While I am deciding on which path to take (dedicated CCD or modified DSLR) I have been considering putting a filter inline to help eliminate some of the more troublesome light pollution from my suburban area. Thanks for the tips! Here is the California Nebula and Interstellar Dustmade with a stock uncooled DSLR, a 70-200 mm f/2.8 lens at 200 mm, f/2.8, and 39 minutes total exposure. It is perfectly possible to take decent images of the night sky with an unmodified camera. I have the followings Yes, you can do a lot with your existing setup. Quite the adventure you are about to take on and I hope you do! Bortle 4 according to lightpollution map. I knew not to expect much. For comparison, have a look at the field of view using a DSLR Camera (Canon EOS 60Da), and a William Optics RedCat 51 at 250mm shown below. In that case you cannot set the aperture and there is a chance of dropping the lens. I think that the dual colour is much nicer in your image. Cameras with a full-frame sensor (such as the Canon EOS Ra) use the native focal length of your telescope without cropping the image. Whether you shoot with a stock or modified camera, these Canon clip-in filters will block plenty of unwanted light. Your camera still has the stock UV/IR filter in place so no need to add another one in front. Congratulations on a great image, and condolences for enduring the cold! Not everyone will be able to "taste" a difference and even if they do, taste is a very personal opinion. I hope you guys like it and for everyone with an unmodded cam to show our equipment can still do something nice. Any other good emission nebulae for unmodded? I think the Astronomik CLS will work well for Jaap too, especially compared to unfiltered shots in LP. I am no expert, but perhaps you will find this link of interest. Tiger (or Rory, or pick your favorite pro) will still beat the pants off of mere mortals using your grandfather's castoffs. I decided I would give this object a fair kick in the can. Oh, I added an L-eNhance for fun. Well, the topic of the article is what you can do with an unmodded camera. During the summer months, the constellation Cygnus reaches high overhead throughout the night. You are quite correct that modding is not required for great astrophotos. My experience with Bahtinov masks is not great and I can't seem to get good focus with the one that I have. The North America Nebula (sometimes incorrectly referred to as the North American Nebula) is rather easy to find thanks to its close proximity to the bright star, Deneb. Others are not. I really appreciate the detail you went into for . Clear skies! Also your star colours are much better. For sure I will. An off-the-shelf DSLR works splendidly for most astro-imaging. The North America Nebula using a 135mm Camera Lens (Ha Filter). While it is exciting to see the Milky Way from a city location, taming the overwhelming glow in post-processing can be a pain. The intense glow of the city can still be seen creeping into the Milky Way, but the light pollution filter has revealed the wondrous starry sky beneath the curtain of light. Hi Myke The clip-in filters are excellent for use with various Canon EF lenses. The mod may or may not void warranty depending on your local law. Eagle Nebula (M16) with an unmodded DSLR eagle nebula m16 By glowingturnip September 7, 2014 in Getting Started With Imaging Followers glowingturnip Members 1,278 1,633 Location: London Posted September 7, 2014 Eagle Nebula (M16) by glowingturnip, on Flickr The Eagle Nebula (M16) is a young open cluster of stars in the constellation Serpens. 4. This is not recommended for shared computers, Celestron PowerSeeker 70AZ Telescope ($10 Scope), Review of Explore Scientific First Light 8, COUNTING SUNSPOTS WITH A $10 OPTICAL TUBE ASSEMBLY, Hubble Optics 14 inch Dobsonian - Part 2: The SiTech GoTo system, iStar Opticals Phantom FCL 140-6.5 review. The clip-in design fits securely over the sensor of your Canon camera. The trick for a good first image is to pick an object that is large and bright. have you heard about any good filters for Nikon cameras? Galaxies consist of stars mainly but galaxies also have star forming regions that typically show strong Ha emissions. And for subjects well suited to "ordinary" DSLR capture (as you point out, lots of them available! M45. Theses are sold under the name 600D and 800D respectively in Europe. if someone whats to take a closer look on the image there is an html verion with links to fullHD sized images here: I think your images are amazing even without a modified camera. If your exposure time is limited to under 2 minutes due to a washed out city sky, I feel your pain. If we want to make this hobby work, we need to get creative. No, I will not. I have no Tracking & no mount The days are warm and the nights are clear, summer star gazing is here! Specifically for D7200. Process a moon image in deep sky stacker. SharpStar Askar ACL200 200-mm f/4 astrographic telephoto lens, Astrotrac 360 tracking platform first impression. Or will they fit in a Full Frame DSLR too? I think that dark skies, good focus, and good tracking/autoguiding are more important. North America Nebula - Astrophotography Images with a DSLR Camera For a breakdown of the steps used to process this image, have a look at my recent deep sky image processing tutorial. The best thing about the North America Nebula in terms of astrophotography is that you can capture it using almost any camera. Hi Trevor, It often appears like using an unmodded camera isn't an option. Because I stretched it to its limits, I revealed light pollution, amp glow, gradients you name it! Using an unmodified DSLR camera is not the best option to image this . Canon EOS Rebel T3i and Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 Lens. Im a bit confused. These SkyTech models are just for APS-C bodies. The imaging target is the Omega Nebula, which was shot on May 30th using data captured through the SkyTech filter. If you don't know what Bortle scale you have clearoutside.com will give you an estimation. Many of them are composite images that contain Ha data from a mono camera. Looking forward to your first image! As a rule of thumb removing the filter enhances the sensitivity by a factor of two or three depending on how the IR filter is designed. I have used both and they are excellent. Filters, such as the SkyTech CLS-CCD Clip-in filter make this possible. Mine was very pale in the center but I really like the way it turned out. The picture came out pretty good for my first time but I know Im going to need a filter. The Double Cluster in Perseus comes without any nebulosity and little variation in star color. I don't want to go deeper into it. Canon T7i, GSO RC8 at f/6, 43x2min, ISO 400, M16. Give it a try! You currently have javascript disabled. A wide-field look at NGC 7000 and friends. I have a Unmodified EOS 450D and a full spectrum modified 550D. Not sure what the Ha transmission of my 10 year old, unmodified Fuji S5 Pro is, but this is the result of a couple of 600 second subs @ ISO3200, Skywatcher ED120 scope. I blended this dynamic greyscale data into the red channel of the color image, as well as a luminance layer. The combination of a modified DSLR such as the 450D with a 50mm camera lens attached offers some tempting photographypossibilities. Do you think the Skytech CLS filter will be a good starter filter? I have been imaging for about 4 months. Any ideas about that? That is like 1/500s or so. When I shot the North American Nebula, my Astro-buddies said things like Wow your unmodded Xsi picks up a lot of red and I thought, hey, maybe I can hold off on an expensive and intrusive mod to my precious Canon. Can you explain the dependency? With great results like this, what's not to like? Without a B-mask use live view on the camera display and go for 10x mag and reduce exposure time until the star is dim. Does that mean you must not image it? (I thought the same thing). Related Post: Narrowband Imaging for Beginners. Equipment: Evostar 80 mm f/7.5 ED APO Refractor Sky-Watcher 0.85X Reducer/Corrector HEQ5 Telescope Mount Unmodified Nikon D5300 DSLR Orion Startshoot Autoguider Composition: 85 lights 150 seconds at ISO 200 20 flats 15 darks Processing: Stacked in DeepSkyStacker Processed in StarTools You can buy cheap ones or ones that will set you back almost as much as top-end astrogear. The lens was set to its maximum focal length of 105mm to produce the scale of this target shown below. As far as nebulae go, this one is extremely easy to locate in the night sky. The image above was captured from my light-polluted backyard in the city (Bortle Scale Class 7). To make matters worse, I live almost directly in the center of town. See the composite version of both data sets. In photographic terms this is just 1 to 1.5 f-stops. 1. The following image was captured using a DSLR camera (Canon EOS 60Da) and a William Optics RedCat 51 refractor telescope. And these images you share in the post become my next targets to try out. This is especially effective in capturing the nebulae in Milky Way with your modified DSLR. About 4.5 hr integration time, pure,no filters , unmodded.76 mm scope at F4.5. What Recommendations Can you give me beside my 2 questions above? Between the stars there is interstellar dust that shows up as brown clouds. When imaged with an unmodified camera these dots are blue. Sky-Watcher Esprit 100 APO and ZWO ASI294MC Pro. In this thread a few lenses known for this problem are listed. I believe the image is useful to those looking to frame up this target using a telephoto camera lens or a wide-field telescope. Would appreciate some help Frank. Copyright 2021 Stargazers Lounge This holds for all globular clusters in the Messier catalog. Some emission nebula are well suited for a stock camera, such as the Lagoon Nebula in Sagittarius. DSLR, Mirrorless & General-Purpose Digital Camera DSO Imaging. In urban skies however, I have had to resort to narrow band filters (H-alpha and OIII), and then H-alpha sensitivity (increased several fold by modding) becomes more important. Your email address will not be published. Your result is not bad at all, I am not sure if I would have been able to improve. M1 - The Crab Nebula - DSLR vs. CMOS Astrophotography To find out what the field of view will be for your camera sensor and telescope, I recommend visiting the resources page for some helpful tools. Thank you for sharing it. Right now, some of the first stars to, Continue Reading Finding Darker SkiesContinue, Backyard Astrophotography Summer would not be complete without spending a night enjoying the dazzling beauty that is the constellation Sagittarius. I have a D5200, and shot (mostly)Heart and Soul nebula using a Ioptron Skytracker. Canon DSLR Astrophotography Filter - SkyTech CLS-CCD Review Youll have to see who will ship those products to your location, of course. Picture Quality: HDR10 and 1080p. Its bright enough to capture without an astro-modified camera (sensitive to IR light), and large enough to capture using a small telescope or camera lens. I am just getting into Astrophotography, and dont have a modified DSLR yet. Beautiful images on that webpage. I too was in your situation at one time I had a Dob and a stock camera. Canon T7i, GSO RC8 at f/6, 43x2min, ISO 400 M16. You could mount your 100-400mm lens on there for some long exposure imaging. Open Cluster NGC2237 and Rosette Nebula. Thank you for the excellent explanations of why many objects do not require modding. The California Nebula captured using a Canon 600D + SkyTech CLS-CCD filter through a Meade 70mm Quadruplet Apo The LPRO Max is an interesting option for those who wish to create starry landscape images of the Milky Way. Ive learned a lot more about clip-in DSLR light pollution filters since then. Each has their own characteristics to perform best based on your imaging location and conditions. I guess with my budget and choice of equipment i have much more to learn. Taking a photo of the international space station is demanding and requires a long focal length, much longer than what was to my disposal. For a photo like this, a focal length of approximately 300mm or less is required. I'm currently using an unmoddedcanon 70D DSLRwith a80mm APO triplet mounted on a NEQ6. When I research input read noise for your camera, its nearly a magnitude lower at 3200 which Ive heard produces substantially less noise..or is that all irrelevant when were talking 3min subs? Thanks for the article and the link. Until I get the scope, auto guiding, ISO speed and exposure times right with my unmodded Nikon D750, I should not splurge on a dedicated CCD/CMOS camera for the purpose. If you go for a shorter focal length you need a mask with more and smaller bars. I took some photos of the Winter Milky Way next to Orion Nebula with the filter. I'd also like to point out that on the long run the question is not whether or not to modify the DSLR. The question is whether to go for a modded or for an OSC astro or for a mono astro camera. M13. How to Modify Your DSLR for Astrophotography - Sky & Telescope
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